I have a 2008 V6 turbo 3.0 litre 113,000 KMS.
The whistle seems louder in hot weather, but generally is getting louder. I went to Mercedes in Canada. Here is what they said they did:
"Hook up battery charger, hook up Xentry machine, perform short test - no codes. Perform smoke test from intake pipe, no leaks found on charge pipes and no leaks from intercooler at this time. Perform road test with customer, no noise heard from engine area"
After all of this I was told that the whistling sound "Is normal and means the turbo is working". This make no sense to me as why does a new / newer Sprinter not make the same noise? I am not a mechanic, but am concerned to get this fixed. The vehicle performs very well and the acceleration has not been negatively impacted by the whistle.
When I go to another mechanic for a second opinion, what should they be looking for and what are the likely culprits of the noise. And of course, what is needed to fix it.
Thank you!
Ian, Canada
Whistling sound on acceleration
Re: Whistling sound on acceleration
Hi Ian,
Hope these lines find you well. I suggest to be more precise:
A) What is hot weather ?
B) Can you confirm a RECENT change to "standard driving conditions" for your case? In the sense that what you observe is REALLY SOMETHING NEW to a well known driving condition (speed, gear, road profile)?
Lay it on us. Curious to better understand your observation.
Best regards,
Wolf
Hope these lines find you well. I suggest to be more precise:
A) What is hot weather ?
B) Can you confirm a RECENT change to "standard driving conditions" for your case? In the sense that what you observe is REALLY SOMETHING NEW to a well known driving condition (speed, gear, road profile)?
Lay it on us. Curious to better understand your observation.
Best regards,
Wolf
| Le voyage est court. Essayons de le faire en première classe. |
| Conquerors of the useless riding JC 08/2005 316 CDI, loaded |
| Conquerors of the useless riding JC 08/2005 316 CDI, loaded |
Re: Whistling sound on acceleration
More information as requested!
A Hot weather is summer weather in Ontario, Canada - 25 - 30 degrees C
In cooler weather say 15 degrees, the issue is not as noticeable.
B Just started noticing the whistling sound in July of this year. Last year, when we bought the JC in Germany and drove it there and in Canada, the sound was not present.
The whistle seems to be getting louder and is more on than off.
Any ideas as to where to look would be appreciated.
Thank you, Ian
A Hot weather is summer weather in Ontario, Canada - 25 - 30 degrees C
In cooler weather say 15 degrees, the issue is not as noticeable.
B Just started noticing the whistling sound in July of this year. Last year, when we bought the JC in Germany and drove it there and in Canada, the sound was not present.
The whistle seems to be getting louder and is more on than off.
Any ideas as to where to look would be appreciated.
Thank you, Ian
Re: Whistling sound on acceleration
Maybe this AI information helps:
The whistling noise you're describing in your Mercedes V6 turbo could be concerning, especially if it's getting louder over time. While some turbo whistling is normal, an increase in volume or a change in the sound's characteristics could indicate an underlying issue. Since the vehicle performs well and there are no error codes or visible leaks found during the diagnostic tests, the problem might be more subtle. Here’s what a second mechanic should look for:
1. Turbocharger Bearings or Shaft Wear:
Issue: Over time, the turbocharger’s bearings or shaft can wear out, leading to increased play and causing a louder whistling or whining noise.
Diagnosis: The mechanic should check for any play or movement in the turbocharger shaft. This might require partially disassembling the turbocharger or using specialized equipment.
Fix: If wear is detected, rebuilding or replacing the turbocharger might be necessary.
2. Turbo Boost Leaks (Under Load):
Issue: While the smoke test showed no leaks, it's possible that a small boost leak could manifest under load or at specific RPMs. Hot weather might exacerbate this by affecting the expansion of materials or the efficiency of seals.
Diagnosis: The mechanic should conduct a boost leak test under load conditions (while driving or simulating driving on a dynamometer). They might also inspect all hoses, clamps, and connections again under these conditions.
Fix: If a leak is found, replacing or tightening the faulty hose or connection should fix the issue.
3. Exhaust or Intake System Leaks:
Issue: A leak in the exhaust manifold, downpipe, or the intake system can cause whistling noises, especially as the engine heats up. Even small cracks or gasket failures can cause noise without a significant impact on performance.
Diagnosis: The mechanic should inspect the exhaust manifold, gaskets, and downpipe for any signs of cracks or leaks. Additionally, they should check the intake system for any loose or cracked parts.
Fix: Depending on the location of the leak, this could involve replacing gaskets, repairing cracks, or tightening loose components.
4. Loose or Damaged Turbo Wastegate or Bypass Valve:
Issue: A malfunctioning wastegate or bypass valve could cause unusual turbo noises, especially under certain conditions like higher ambient temperatures or specific engine loads.
Diagnosis: The mechanic should inspect the wastegate actuator and bypass valve for proper operation and any signs of wear or damage.
Fix: If there’s an issue, the wastegate actuator or bypass valve may need adjustment or replacement.
5. Air Filter or Intake Restrictions:
Issue: A partially clogged or restrictive air filter or intake system can increase the noise from the turbo as it works harder to draw in air.
Diagnosis: Inspect the air filter and intake ducting for any blockages, dirt, or restrictions.
Fix: Replacing a dirty air filter or clearing any intake obstructions should reduce the noise.
6. Turbine Blades or Compressor Wheel Damage:
Issue: Damage to the turbine blades or compressor wheel inside the turbo can cause unusual noises as the turbo spins. This is less likely without performance issues but should still be considered.
Diagnosis: Inspect the turbo’s internals (may require disassembly) for any signs of damage or imbalance.
Fix: If damage is found, repairing or replacing the turbocharger is necessary.
The whistling noise you're describing in your Mercedes V6 turbo could be concerning, especially if it's getting louder over time. While some turbo whistling is normal, an increase in volume or a change in the sound's characteristics could indicate an underlying issue. Since the vehicle performs well and there are no error codes or visible leaks found during the diagnostic tests, the problem might be more subtle. Here’s what a second mechanic should look for:
1. Turbocharger Bearings or Shaft Wear:
Issue: Over time, the turbocharger’s bearings or shaft can wear out, leading to increased play and causing a louder whistling or whining noise.
Diagnosis: The mechanic should check for any play or movement in the turbocharger shaft. This might require partially disassembling the turbocharger or using specialized equipment.
Fix: If wear is detected, rebuilding or replacing the turbocharger might be necessary.
2. Turbo Boost Leaks (Under Load):
Issue: While the smoke test showed no leaks, it's possible that a small boost leak could manifest under load or at specific RPMs. Hot weather might exacerbate this by affecting the expansion of materials or the efficiency of seals.
Diagnosis: The mechanic should conduct a boost leak test under load conditions (while driving or simulating driving on a dynamometer). They might also inspect all hoses, clamps, and connections again under these conditions.
Fix: If a leak is found, replacing or tightening the faulty hose or connection should fix the issue.
3. Exhaust or Intake System Leaks:
Issue: A leak in the exhaust manifold, downpipe, or the intake system can cause whistling noises, especially as the engine heats up. Even small cracks or gasket failures can cause noise without a significant impact on performance.
Diagnosis: The mechanic should inspect the exhaust manifold, gaskets, and downpipe for any signs of cracks or leaks. Additionally, they should check the intake system for any loose or cracked parts.
Fix: Depending on the location of the leak, this could involve replacing gaskets, repairing cracks, or tightening loose components.
4. Loose or Damaged Turbo Wastegate or Bypass Valve:
Issue: A malfunctioning wastegate or bypass valve could cause unusual turbo noises, especially under certain conditions like higher ambient temperatures or specific engine loads.
Diagnosis: The mechanic should inspect the wastegate actuator and bypass valve for proper operation and any signs of wear or damage.
Fix: If there’s an issue, the wastegate actuator or bypass valve may need adjustment or replacement.
5. Air Filter or Intake Restrictions:
Issue: A partially clogged or restrictive air filter or intake system can increase the noise from the turbo as it works harder to draw in air.
Diagnosis: Inspect the air filter and intake ducting for any blockages, dirt, or restrictions.
Fix: Replacing a dirty air filter or clearing any intake obstructions should reduce the noise.
6. Turbine Blades or Compressor Wheel Damage:
Issue: Damage to the turbine blades or compressor wheel inside the turbo can cause unusual noises as the turbo spins. This is less likely without performance issues but should still be considered.
Diagnosis: Inspect the turbo’s internals (may require disassembly) for any signs of damage or imbalance.
Fix: If damage is found, repairing or replacing the turbocharger is necessary.
Re: Whistling sound on acceleration
WOW, Rainerd. The most detailed and comprehensive reply I have ever seen re an issue on the forum. Thanks.
When my JC is goes to the mechanic I will give him this potential checklist and then update everyone.
Much appreciated,
Ian
When my JC is goes to the mechanic I will give him this potential checklist and then update everyone.
Much appreciated,
Ian
Re: Whistling sound on acceleration
Is your belt not gulty ?
In this case, the noise is present when starting and disappears later, once the charging current decreases.
In this case, the noise is present when starting and disappears later, once the charging current decreases.